Last year, I made my first pressed indie shadow palette using Mai’s tutorial. Since then, I discovered and fell head over heels in love with Femme Fatale cosmetics. I love their duochromes! But being a loose shadow formula, I tend to reach for them less than I would a pressed formula. I’m just too messy and impatient to open lots of little jars full of powders that WANT to spill all over my lap. (They want to. No lie.) So I placed a big-ish order for 3 gram mini-jars that I then pressed into a palette I bought from Anothersoul on Etsy.
The results were mixed. Some shades translated beeeeeyoutifully using Mai’s formula. Others– not so much. They look good in swatches because I really packed it on, but they were quite dry. I’ll be sure to note which as I go through the swatches. ETA 1/23: I ended up reblending the dry shades with two drops of glycerin and then re-pressing. WORLD of difference. I can now use Flare & Sugar Rush. HURRAH.
Here are the pans inside the palette. Aaaah, Virgoan tidiness.
On to the swatches!
Icemist Diamond and Alpine Skies pressed WONDERFULLY. These swatches were one-stroke swatches. Beautiful, buttery interference shades. Aaaaaah.
Faerie Fire and Dr Eeek were sort of middle-of-the-pack. In both, the interference became more pronounced, but the formula not as buttery. I’d also say that pressed, Dr. Eeek skewed more of a coral pink than the deeper pink berry of its original powder formula.
Sugar Rush was a major disappointment. This one was drier than the Sahara when it swatched, whereas the original was perfection. It’s also a little bit lighter. I really had to layer it on for this swatch. Very sad about this, as Sugar Rush is one of my favorite Femme Fatale shades. ETA: AHA! Sugar Rush contains Ultramarines, which tend not to press very well. That explains it!
Cake translated wonderfully. It’s a bit more of a champagne-y than it is as a loose shadow, but it’s still a gorgeous highlight shade. Peebles was one of the drier ones, and the shimmer looked more golden than the green of the original.
Witchwood and Flowers Before Flames translated pretty well, true to the originals. Flare was kind of a dud– this swatch is foiled. Meh, I should have saved this for a lipgloss.
Fire Opal translated really well into a pressed shade– the base is a little less chalky, but it’s still decently opaque. Bat Wing Hall lost some of its berry tone– pressed, it translates much more as a golden coral. You Can’t Scare Me is AMAZING pressed, although it did end up a tad dry. It looks much more like a true duochrome, whereas as a loose shadow, the two colors separated in blending.
Underlord is one of those shades that changes depending on the medium. Loose, it’s a deep berry with strong green interference. Over a sticky base, it’s like an opaque berry lipstick. In a gloss medium, it’s a sheer berry with some green shimmer. And pressed, the green shimmer takes over. In direct sun, you can still see the plummy base (though it is lighter than the original), but in diffused light, you’d mistake this for a forest green shimmer. Pretty cool! Poison, much to my surprise, translated like buttah. Considering pressing mattes is incredibly tricky, this is the one I expected to be a dud. But nope, that’s a one-swipe swatch there. Excellent.
And now, for some Instagram-ariffic mid-process shots:
Overall, there were some spectacular wins, and a few disappointing losses. I can’t fault Femme Fatale for those– the original loose shadows are fab. The fault lies somewhere with me– I clearly need to tinker with my base formula a bit for those shades to yield a softer shadow with more payoff.
Anyhow, while I was on my Anothersoul spree, I picked up two more in order to depot my other shadows and reorganize them into nice, tidy, compact palettes.
This one houses my favorite neutrals, featuring Urban Decay, Kat Von D, and Makeup Geek.
This one houses some of my most reached-for color shades, including Makeup Geek, Kat Von D, and some of the shades I pressed the last time.
Next palette: Sugarpill brights, probably. I have been curious about that brand for about a year now, and I’m ready to take the plunge!